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Brazilian smoothing, Japanese smoothing, Korean smoothing, Luxter and straightening. Which method to choose according to your hair type? Explanations by Céline Dupuy, hairdresser specializing in straightening.

Brazilian smoothing , Japanese smoothing, Korean smoothing, Luxter and straightening, what is the difference?

- Brazilian smoothing is above all a very gentle keratin-based treatment that deeply nourishes and facilitates brushing, but it does not make the hair stiff.

-Luxter based on vegetable collagen is a little stronger. It relaxes the hair which becomes much supple. But if we are looking to completely straighten the hair, we opt for Japanese smoothing with silk proteins. It is quite similar to Korean straightening, except that the latter is also for henna enthusiasts.

-Traditional hair straightening, the main objective of which is to straighten frizzy hair or afro hair, refers to the use of aggressive products which may sometimes contain ammonia or soda.

Does straightening damage the hair?

The traditional straightening of yesteryear is not comparable to these new techniques which are much softer. Nevertheless, straightening, except Brazilian straightening, will permanently modify the structure of the hair. They can therefore dry out and weaken the hair, but it's no worse than if you abuse the straightener on a daily basis to tame rebellious hair.

Which method gives the best results?

It all depends on the desired effect. If you want to discipline your hair very slightly while giving it a shiny and neat appearance, you do a Brazilian straightening. It is possible whatever the nature of his hair. Brazilian smoothing redraws the curls more precisely, eliminates the small frizz appearing at the slightest drop of rain and sheaths the sparkling hair. For those who only have hard-to-manage bangs or small unruly locks that frame the face, this is also the right solution, because you can apply smoothing product locally.

When you like to change your look every day and go from impeccable brushing to a more natural hairstyle, you ask for a Luxter. You can obtain a sophisticated straightening under the effect of the heat of the hair dryer or keep the hair supple or even slightly wavy by letting it dry naturally. To have straight hair like chopsticks even when you are very curly, you turn to Japanese smoothing or Korean smoothing.

What type of straightening is best for frizzy or afro hair?

To straighten frizzy hair, the most suitable solution is often Japanese straightening. The hair is durably straight and silky. Also good for straightening afro or mixed hair. Métis hair can also be relaxed with the Luxter, so it becomes soft, but not stiff.

Smoothing on fine hair, is it possible?

When you have fine, curly hair, it's not always easy to straighten it, because you're afraid of losing volume. The result can give a not very glamorous rattail effect. If you still want to stiffen them, the Luxter is a good option, because it gives a denser and voluminous appearance to the hair. A downside however, it does not completely relax curly hair. The curls are still there, less pronounced though.

What about colored, bleached or highlighted hair?
With Brazilian smoothing, no problem. For other smoothings, the color must be applied at least 1 month before smoothing. Then you have to wait at least 1 week to make a new color.

How long will the smoothing hold on the hair?

For Korean smoothing, Japanese smoothing or Luxter, it is permanent and definitive. It is enough to take the root twice a year so that the smoothing lasts.

Conversely, Brazilian smoothing lasts between 3 and 5 months. The product goes away gradually, the less sensitized and bleached the hair is, the longer the smoothing lasts. There is no root effect linked to hair regrowth.

What hair care to use after straightening?

Sulfates eliminate the keratin present in Brazilian straightening. To prolong the care effect of smoothing, we therefore favor a shampoo, a conditioner and a treatment without sulphate or without sodium laureth sulphate. To make sure that this is the case with the products we use, we read the list of ingredients on the packaging. Otherwise, you can also buy products labeled sulfate-free in the salon (Céline Dupuy, Miso by Lissfactor, Discipline by Kérastase, Fiberfyl by Mizani, Urban Diamant by Urban Keratin).

>>> READ. How do I straighten my hair without damaging it?

What is the average price of a straightening?

Between 200 and 360 euros for a Brazilian straightening or a Luxter. Between 355 and 715 euros for a Japanese or Korean smoothing. Count between 20 and 75 euros for home smoothing kits.

What about smoothing kits to do alone at home?

Smoothing products are difficult to handle. As a result, homemade formulas are often less concentrated than those used in salons. It is however a good option for example for those who have a small budget and want to test smoothing. If you have already done a Japanese, Korean or Luxter straightening, you must avoid applying the product to hair that has already been straightened, otherwise it will be weakened. We only treat the roots at the regrowth level (Franck Provost, Keraline, Urban Keratin).

Hair straightening, what dangers?

In France, straightening products with a concentration greater than 0.2% in formaldehyde or formaldehyde, "which is the maximum authorized limit", explains Christelle Martinez, Fauvert Professional trainer for the National Union of Hairdressing Companies (UNEC) , are forbidden.

Finally, beware of purchases of smoothing kits on the Internet. Some products, most often imported from the United States or Brazil, greatly exceed the concentration authorized by the French authorities.

Indeed, the National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products (ANSM) recalls that formaldehyde is carcinogenic and can cause eye and respiratory irritation and contact dermatitis. “To minimize the risks, we choose a product made in Europe and we read the composition of the smoothing product carefully. If you go to a salon, you ask your hairdresser if the smoothing is formaldehyde-free.” You can also check that the brand name used does not appear in the list of products identified by the National Agency for the Safety of Medicines and Health Products.

Salon Céline Dupuy, 9 rue de l'Arc de Triomphe, 75017 Paris. Tel: 01 45 74 71 44.

Elyssa cosmetics